October 4 - 10 , 2004 Myanmar's first international weekly © Volume 12 , No.236
 
 
 

Historic road links wilderness and culture

By Win Nyunt Lwin

MYANMAR is a destination of growing importance for tourists interested in ancient history, but it also contains regions that are potential attractions for travellers fascinated by more recent world-shaping events.

Among these are the famous Ledo and Burma roads, built by Allied forces during World War II as a means to move supplies from India to China through northern Myanmar.

Construction of the Ledo Road by US Army engineers began in December 1942 and was completed in early 1945.

The road ran from Ledo, in the Assam Province of northeastern India, through the jungle-covered mountains and swampy valleys of northern Myanmar’s Kachin State, to the town of Bhamo.

The Burma Road ran from Bhamo to the Kunming in China, using part of a route built by the British during the 1920’s to connect Lashio in Shan State to Mong Yu on the Chinese border. An extension was built that linked Bhamo to this road via the town of Namkham, while the Chinese completed the route by improving an existing road from the border of Myanmar to Kunming in Yunnan Province.

Allied forced spent US$148 million on construction of the road system, sometimes referred to as the Stilwell Road because it was built under the direction of US General Joe Stilwell. It was used for only 10 months before being abandoned as useless. During that time – January to October 1945 – more than 34,000 tonnes of supplies were trucked from Ledo to Kunming, a distance of 1079 miles.

Few services or tourist facilities now exist along the old Ledo Road section. Most of the visitors consist of members of non-governmental organisations, or conservationists who take advantage of the region’s remoteness to study Myanmar’s biological diversity. New botanical and zoological species are still being discovered there.

The easiest way to access the Ledo Road region is to fly to Myitkyina in Kachin State and travel overland to the village of Tanai in Hugaung Valley.

Once known as Death Valley by the Allied forces because of its adverse weather (the best time to visit is October to March), Hugaung was earlier this year designated the largest tiger reserve in the world.

The journey to the valley can be tiring, and one travel agent suggested that it only be attempted by those physically fit enough to handle rigorous travel.

Because tourist infrastructure is virtually nonexistent, visitors to the area must also carry enough supplies to last the duration of the trip.

Aside from exploring remote wilderness areas, travellers can visit Kachin, Naga and Lishu villages.

Myitkyina is a good jumping-off point for excursions to Kachin settlements, where women wear distinctive red and black headdresses, and men were dark blue and green longyis (lowland villages) or trousers (mountain villages).

The region around the Burma Road in mountainous Shan State, meanwhile, includes a number of interesting cities – such as Kyaukme, Hsipaw, Lashio, Kutkai and Muse – that are more easily accessible than the Ledo area.

Those heading overland towards the Burma Road from Mandalay will pass through the picturesque town of Pyin U Lwin, followed by Kyaukme, whose Shan ethnic majority makes it an excellent place to experience local culture.

Travelling east from there, the next point of interest is Hsipaw, where tourists will find the historic Shan sawbwa haw (Shan palace), where descendents of Shan royalty reside.

Those lucky enough to pass through town shortly after the full moon of Tabaung in February or March will witness one of the oldest Shan festivals, which features ox competitions and beautifully decorated oxcarts.

Lashio, where Shan and Chinese cultures mix, is the southernmost point of the Burma Road. It is a great jumping-off point for trekking into the nearby mountains and visiting local hot springs. Kutkai provides more exposure to Shan culture, as well as Padaung basket weaving and agriculture.

The Burma Road passes into China across the Shweli River at the border town of Muse, where trade is brisk and many Chinese people come to shop.

Other areas of interest along the wartime road system include Namkham Valley southwest of Muse in Shan State, site of Dr Gordon Seagrave’s American Medical Centre during World War II, and the sleepy Kachin State market town of Bhamo, where the Burma and Ledo roads meet.

 

 
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