October 4 - 10 , 2004 Myanmar's first international weekly © Volume 12 , No.236
 
 
 

Putao provides access to remote villages, high peaks

By Su Myat Hla
Treks to Mount Khakaborazi, the highest peak in Southeast Asia, start in Putao.

NOT many people in the world know that Myanmar is blessed with an astounding variety of natural resources, ranging from pristine beaches, beautiful lakes and isolated islands, to thick forests, high mountains and a rich assortment of flora and fauna species.

The region surrounding the town of Putao – located in northern Myanmar’s Kachin State – is an undeniable showcase of this diversity.

Putao itself is flat and contains no big trees, but it is becoming increasingly famous as a jumping-off point for trekkers who want to explore the region’s deep forests and snow-capped mountains, including the 5889-metre-high Mount Khakaborazi, the highest in Southeast Asia.

The managing director of Atsam Travels and Tours Co., Ltd., Daw San San Aye, which specialises in arranging Kachin State tours, said the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful even for people who live there or who have visited many times.

“As soon as I set foot on Putao soil, I feel a sense of composure – relaxed, contented and happy. I want everybody to see what I am witnessing,” she said.

“The whole area is cold all year round,” said U Rakwi Pung, the managing director of Snowland Travels and Tours, Ltd.

Born and raised in Putao, he said that “there isn’t a single night that blankets are not used”.

Snow begins falling on the mountain peaks by the end of October, but precipitation that falls at night or in the morning usually melts away by the afternoon. By mid-November temperatures have dropped enough that the snow stays around longer and begins blanketing Putao itself.

By mid-December the town is covered in snow.

“If you want to see real snowfall, visit the place in December,” said Daw San San Aye.

The cold season ends in mid-May, while the rainy season lasts from June to August.

“During the rainy season, it rains all the time, and downpours come unexpectedly,” said Ma Khin Win Myint, an experienced guide for the government-owned Myanmar Travels and Tours company.

She lived in Putao for two years as a school teacher. She later moved to Yangon and spent seven years guiding tourists on visits to Putao and other areas in Myanmar.

“It is an unforgettable feeling, so peaceful and calm. So much different from city life,” she said of the experience.

One of the most attractive aspects of Putao is the simplicity of life there. It is inhabited by Karnti Shan and Kachin – including Lisu, Lasheik, Jangphaw, Rawang, Khakhu and Dureng people – and some Bamar.

Most of them are Christian, and most use agriculture to sustain themselves.

Every morning the locals who live in the forest get up around 2am, pack what they grow and bring it to the marketplace in Putao. They start selling about 3am.

“At that time the sun has not come out, so everyone has their own lantern. The scene at the marketplace looks amazing in the early morning darkness,” said Daw San San Aye.

Being a quiet, simple town that is not yet on the radar of most tourists, Putao has no hotels and few guesthouses. Kakaborazi guest house has rooms with decorative stone walls and attached bathrooms for US$30, and bungalows for $20. Several other small guesthouses have rooms with separate bathrooms for $5 to $10. All of them can provide hot water.

Restaurants offer good Chinese food and traditional Shan food, but Daw San San Aye said she prefers roasted fish from local rivers.

“The fish come from the icy river and are not like those from anywhere else.

They are sweet, fresh and delicious, and do not need added flavour,” she said.

There are plenty of sites of interest near Putao. Pan Hlaing, a Buddhist Kharnti Shan village, is only a 10-minute drive away.

They have a fantastically simple way of life, said Ma Khin Win Myint.

Rawang women in Kachin State.

“Kharnti Shan wear traditional clothing and grow vegetables, and visitors can observe their small market,” she said.

Eight kilometres from Putao – about a 45-minute drive – is the Lisu village of Mulashiti. An icy stream passes nearby, adding to the beauty of the town and making it perfect for photographers.

“The view is really picturesque. You can’t resist taking a lot of photos,” Ma Khin Win Myint said.

Kanugmulon Pagoda – more than 1000 years old and full of ancient art – is about 18 kilometres from Putao, a trip that takes about 45 minutes by car.

About 22 kilometres and a one-hour drive from Putao is the famous town of Machanbaw, where the stream that passes through Mulashiti meets the May Kha River. Travelling to the area requires crossing the river on a swinging cane suspension bridge or taking raft trip.

Daw San San Aye recommends the rafting option.

“You cannot know how cold the water is from the bank. But when you touch the water in the middle of the river, it is chilling,” said.

On a hill near town is the Stone Dragon, a natural rock formation that looks like a giant dragon.

“It is unbelievable!” Ma Khin Win Myint exclaimed.

“Its many legs and scales look so genuine, it is as if a real dragon is stuck on the rock,” she said.

However, Putao’s main draw in the future is likely to be the many trekking options available. The town is surrounded by deep forests that are so thick in places that even the rays of the sun cannot get through.

The area is home to numerous wild animals – including monkeys, deer, birds and butterflies – so it is no wonder that scientific researchers and butterfly hunters are attracted to the area.

The Putao region is also known for harbouring a wide variety of orchids, including a number of rare species.

“There are black orchids but they are not easy to find. You can see them only after the snow melts away,” Daw San San Aye said.

The flagship trek of the area is an expedition to Mt. Khakaborazi, more than 440 kilometres from Putao

It takes nearly one month to complete, said U Rakwi Pung.

The route passes through the 1472-square-mile Khakaborazi National Park, and trekkers will meet the Tarung people, who are only three feet tall, said U Rakwi Pung “Only five Tarung exist,” he said.

Shorter options are available, including a five-day, four-night walk to the 3655-metre-high Mt. Phonekanrazi.

Trekkers heading into the mountains will pass through foothill villages. Among these are Sanggon, Ziyadan and Wasangdan, but some of them do not even have names.

Ma Khin Win Myint said many of these villages are small and simple places where it is not even possible to buy goods.

“Money is of no use for the villagers, so nothing can be bought. But you can barter for goods using anything from pens and books, to sleeping bags and compasses,” she said.

Some of the villages have unoccupied houses that locals allow trekkers to stay in.

“Every house has a fireplace in the middle and firewood. You can cook by yourselves from tins carried along the way,” Ma Khin Win Myint said.

The best way to reach Putao is by flying. Traveling by train is also possible, but it is not recommended by travel agents because it takes many hours.

Myanma Airways flies from Yangon to Putao via Myitkyina on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The two-hour trip costs $420 return.

The total cost of a package trip to Putao can range from $700 to more than $1000 a person, depending on the destinations involved and the duration of the trip. The price includes airfare, car transportation, guide and porter fees, and meals.

“Groups of people can share the costs of a car and guide, so the more people there are the less it will cost each one,” said Ma Khin Win Myint.

As Putao is still restricted area, visitors must make travel plans with tour companies at least one month in advance.

 

 
»advertisement
 BUSINESS
»
»
   
 
 HEALTH
»
»
 
 TIMEOUT
»
»
 
 NEWS
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
 
 
         
For further information and enquiries, please contact
management@myanmartimes.com.mm
LEVEL 1, Thamada Hotel, 5 Signal Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon Myanmar.
Telephone: (951) 242 711, 242 722, 242 733 Facsimile: (951) 242 699
Copyright© 2004-2005 - Myanmar Consolidated Media Co. Ltd. All rights reserved.


Contact: Advertisement - advertising@myanmartimes.com.mm   |  Contact: Editorial - newsroom@myanmartimes.com.mm
Contact: Webmaster - webmaster@myanmartimes.com.mm