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| Treks to Mount Khakaborazi, the highest
peak in Southeast Asia, start in Putao. |
NOT many people in the world know that Myanmar is blessed with
an astounding variety of natural resources, ranging from pristine
beaches, beautiful lakes and isolated islands, to thick forests,
high mountains and a rich assortment of flora and fauna species.
The region surrounding the town of Putao – located in
northern Myanmar’s Kachin State – is an undeniable
showcase of this diversity.
Putao itself is flat and contains no big trees, but it is becoming
increasingly famous as a jumping-off point for trekkers who want
to explore the region’s deep forests and snow-capped mountains,
including the 5889-metre-high Mount Khakaborazi, the highest in
Southeast Asia.
The managing director of Atsam Travels and Tours Co., Ltd.,
Daw San San Aye, which specialises in arranging Kachin State tours,
said the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful even for people who
live there or who have visited many times.
“As soon as I set foot on Putao soil, I feel a sense of
composure – relaxed, contented and happy. I want everybody
to see what I am witnessing,” she said.
“The whole area is cold all year round,” said U
Rakwi Pung, the managing director of Snowland Travels and Tours,
Ltd.
Born and raised in Putao, he said that “there isn’t
a single night that blankets are not used”.
Snow begins falling on the mountain peaks by the end of October,
but precipitation that falls at night or in the morning usually
melts away by the afternoon. By mid-November temperatures have
dropped enough that the snow stays around longer and begins blanketing
Putao itself.
By mid-December the town is covered in snow.
“If you want to see real snowfall, visit the place in
December,” said Daw San San Aye.
The cold season ends in mid-May, while the rainy season lasts
from June to August.
“During the rainy season, it rains all the time, and downpours
come unexpectedly,” said Ma Khin Win Myint, an experienced
guide for the government-owned Myanmar Travels and Tours company.
She lived in Putao for two years as a school teacher. She later
moved to Yangon and spent seven years guiding tourists on visits
to Putao and other areas in Myanmar.
“It is an unforgettable feeling, so peaceful and calm.
So much different from city life,” she said of the experience.
One of the most attractive aspects of Putao is the simplicity
of life there. It is inhabited by Karnti Shan and Kachin –
including Lisu, Lasheik, Jangphaw, Rawang, Khakhu and Dureng people
– and some Bamar.
Most of them are Christian, and most use agriculture to sustain
themselves.
Every morning the locals who live in the forest get up around
2am, pack what they grow and bring it to the marketplace in Putao.
They start selling about 3am.
“At that time the sun has not come out, so everyone has
their own lantern. The scene at the marketplace looks amazing
in the early morning darkness,” said Daw San San Aye.
Being a quiet, simple town that is not yet on the radar of most
tourists, Putao has no hotels and few guesthouses. Kakaborazi
guest house has rooms with decorative stone walls and attached
bathrooms for US$30, and bungalows for $20. Several other small
guesthouses have rooms with separate bathrooms for $5 to $10.
All of them can provide hot water.
Restaurants offer good Chinese food and traditional Shan food,
but Daw San San Aye said she prefers roasted fish from local rivers.
“The fish come from the icy river and are not like those
from anywhere else.
They are sweet, fresh and delicious, and do not need added flavour,”
she said.
There are plenty of sites of interest near Putao. Pan Hlaing,
a Buddhist Kharnti Shan village, is only a 10-minute drive away.
They have a fantastically simple way of life, said Ma Khin Win
Myint.
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| Rawang women in Kachin State. |
“Kharnti Shan wear traditional clothing and grow vegetables,
and visitors can observe their small market,” she said.
Eight kilometres from Putao – about a 45-minute drive
– is the Lisu village of Mulashiti. An icy stream passes
nearby, adding to the beauty of the town and making it perfect
for photographers.
“The view is really picturesque. You can’t resist
taking a lot of photos,” Ma Khin Win Myint said.
Kanugmulon Pagoda – more than 1000 years old and full
of ancient art – is about 18 kilometres from Putao, a trip
that takes about 45 minutes by car.
About 22 kilometres and a one-hour drive from Putao is the famous
town of Machanbaw, where the stream that passes through Mulashiti
meets the May Kha River. Travelling to the area requires crossing
the river on a swinging cane suspension bridge or taking raft
trip.
Daw San San Aye recommends the rafting option.
“You cannot know how cold the water is from the bank.
But when you touch the water in the middle of the river, it is
chilling,” said.
On a hill near town is the Stone Dragon, a natural rock formation
that looks like a giant dragon.
“It is unbelievable!” Ma Khin Win Myint exclaimed.
“Its many legs and scales look so genuine, it is as if
a real dragon is stuck on the rock,” she said.
However, Putao’s main draw in the future is likely to
be the many trekking options available. The town is surrounded
by deep forests that are so thick in places that even the rays
of the sun cannot get through.
The area is home to numerous wild animals – including
monkeys, deer, birds and butterflies – so it is no wonder
that scientific researchers and butterfly hunters are attracted
to the area.
The Putao region is also known for harbouring a wide variety
of orchids, including a number of rare species.
“There are black orchids but they are not easy to find.
You can see them only after the snow melts away,” Daw San
San Aye said.
The flagship trek of the area is an expedition to Mt. Khakaborazi,
more than 440 kilometres from Putao
It takes nearly one month to complete, said U Rakwi Pung.
The route passes through the 1472-square-mile Khakaborazi National
Park, and trekkers will meet the Tarung people, who are only three
feet tall, said U Rakwi Pung “Only five Tarung exist,”
he said.
Shorter options are available, including a five-day, four-night
walk to the 3655-metre-high Mt. Phonekanrazi.
Trekkers heading into the mountains will pass through foothill
villages. Among these are Sanggon, Ziyadan and Wasangdan, but
some of them do not even have names.
Ma Khin Win Myint said many of these villages are small and
simple places where it is not even possible to buy goods.
“Money is of no use for the villagers, so nothing can
be bought. But you can barter for goods using anything from pens
and books, to sleeping bags and compasses,” she said.
Some of the villages have unoccupied houses that locals allow
trekkers to stay in.
“Every house has a fireplace in the middle and firewood.
You can cook by yourselves from tins carried along the way,”
Ma Khin Win Myint said.
The best way to reach Putao is by flying. Traveling by train
is also possible, but it is not recommended by travel agents because
it takes many hours.
Myanma Airways flies from Yangon to Putao via Myitkyina on Sunday,
Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The two-hour trip costs $420 return.
The total cost of a package trip to Putao can range from $700
to more than $1000 a person, depending on the destinations involved
and the duration of the trip. The price includes airfare, car
transportation, guide and porter fees, and meals.
“Groups of people can share the costs of a car and guide,
so the more people there are the less it will cost each one,”
said Ma Khin Win Myint.
As Putao is still restricted area, visitors must make travel
plans with tour companies at least one month in advance.